![]() Maurice Rougemont/Gamma-Rapho // Getty Images Thomas Keller in the garden of restaurant The French Laundry. Most of Keller's staff have been aboard The French Laundry/Per Se train for years and listening to them muse about his cuisine and the preparation enriches each dish tremendously. Repeat after me: "The French Laundry is a restaurant-not a temple." While waiting for your second course of celery root purée, Thompson grapes, Virginia peanuts and pea tendrils, you might find yourself whispering to your fellow diners in reverential tones as if the chefs are behind some nearby curtain fastidiously creating your food like Tibetan monks working on a sand mosaic. "Saudi royalty behind us?" The dining room seats 60 and the people watching is nearly as delightful as the cuisine.ģ.ĝon't be blinded by the Michelin stars. Who joined you in the absurdity of waiting three months for a table? "Is that Yo-Yo Ma at that two-top by the window?" you lean over and whisper to your date. The question is inevitable before even Keller's legendary first course of "Oysters and Pearls" (Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar) arrives. Play icon The triangle icon that indicates to play Remember this meal is more about your palate than your stomach. Allow your eyeballs to roll into the back of your skull. If you're famished by the time the napkin hits your lap, the first three courses will go by in blur. All told the prix fixe menu boasts seven courses plus dessert. ![]() The pacing of the meal is glacial, and the portions are small but intensely rich. The French Laundry is going to slay your appetite, but will do so with strategically shot arrows rather than by a giant swipe of the sword. Or close to it anyway.ĭon't make the mistake of fasting before dinner. If you're lucky enough to land a reservation at his Napa Valley flagship, The French Laundry (no openings on OpenTable), here's what you need to know to get your money's worth. After New York Time s critic Pete Wells roasted the famed chef's New York City landmark Per Se in a recent review that lopped off two of its stars, it's safe to assume that the meticulous Keller has all his restaurants on high alert and it might be easier than ever to get a reservation at one ( OpenTable currently shows dinner openings for two every night over the next week except Saturday). Or rather, do: the first is a contraction of it is, the second, a possessive, as in, the dog bites its tail.There could perhaps be no better time to dine at one of Chef Thomas Keller's restaurants than now. (And don’t get me started on it’s and its. Bad punctuation drives me nuts, and it’s everywhere. Or do I, Dude?) did not become a bestseller for nothing. “Eats, Shoots & Leaves: The Zero Tolerance Approach to Punctuation” (I am using quotes because I have no italic command here. The use of quotes to denote specialness, however, is a double-misuse, as aside from the above examples, (as well as of course putting dialogue within quotes), quotation marks are used to denote sarcasm, or the thing’s opposite, as in, about someone who is dim: Oh, she’s a real “intellectual.” One might, if one must, do the same thing in CAPS or boldface or by underlining, and stay within punctuational bounds. I believe vendors use quotation marks because they want to stress that, say, the tomatoes they sell are “great.” They are using the quotation marks as a frame, or a pedestal. Reader Survey: Best Coffeehouses in Portland 2017.A Map of our favorite Portland coffeehouses. ![]() Interviews: Honest dialog with people in the Portland food industry.Reader Survey: Best of Portland Food 2017.
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